Story time. When I lived in France as a child with my Mom, I have fond memories of following her around the antique markets. I learned the art of haggling, the history behind the pieces, and how to know when something was a high quality item. For my month in Paris, I knew I had to pay a visit to a “Marché aux puces.” Originally I planned to visit the Puces de St-Ouen, (we’ll get into that in a second) before one of the locals introduced me to the Vanves Flea Market. (Puces de Vanves in French)
WHY NOT THE PUCES DE ST-OUEN?
St-Ouen is famous primarily due to its vast size. You’re looking at 2,500 stalls and 10 miles of alleyways. You could spend days getting lost in the maze of shops and stalls. I think that if you’re looking more for the experience, go there. If you’re looking to bargain hunt or maybe pick up a little souvenir or two… not so much. BUT, if you decide you still want to go, here are some things you should know:
Hours
- Saturday 9AM – 6PM
- Sunday 10 AM – 6PM
- Monday 10 AM – 5PM
Location
- 93400 Saint-Ouen (About 30 minutes north from the center of Paris)
WHY THE PUCES DE VANVES?
Locals say that while this may not be the biggest market, it is one of the best & most reasonably priced. There are about 200-300 stalls in a residential area. It’s busy but a quiet busy. You’ll find a mix of trendy young Parisians and older well dressed men and women eyeing everything from vintage jewelry to home goods. You can spend the whole morning here or a few hours depending on your schedule.
My experience: I arrived around 11 AM to the market (though it was recommended to arrive right when they open at 7 AM for the best deals). It was crowded, but not to the point that I couldn’t leisurely meander around and eye the packed stalls. While some of the stalls had incredibly overpriced items, most were incredibly reasonable. It also helps if you engage in some of the tips I’ll be discussing below.
Hours
- Saturday-Sunday 7:30 am-1 pm
Location
- Puces de Vanves : Avenue Marc Sangnier and avenue Georges-Lafenestre , 14th arr.
TIPS FOR SHOPPING LIKE A PARISIAN
1) Start with Bonjour
The book “The Bonjour Effect” goes into the details of why saying “bonjour” is so important. Whether it’s to the bus driver, you’re walking into a restaurant, or at the flea market, this is a must. French society is very particular about its niceties. Even if you don’t speak French, starting with a bonjour will start the conversation on the right foot.
2) Get that poker face on when you ask for the price
This is applicable no matter where in the world you are. The more excitement you show, the less likely the seller is to negotiate with you. If there is something that you really want, do make it the first thing you pick up or touch. Once you’ve looked enough, casually ask for the price.
3) Ask about the history of the item
This is something I learned from watching my mom for years. Asking about the history of an item makes it seem that you’re potentially an expert and know whether or not you’re being ripped off. Let’s use a vintage perfume as an example. I would pick it up and start looking at the glass and markings before asking what “epoque” (time period) it’s from. This frames you as an antique buyer/ collector.
4) Figure out how much you want to spend & don’t be afraid to walk away
Likely you’re not an expert on what you’re looking at. For most of us, something might look cool, but we’re not quite sure what it’s worth. In that case, figure out how much you want to spend and don’t be afraid to walk away. If the seller really wants to sell, they may give you another offer while you walk away.
5) Negotiate without being offensive
At the end of the day, we have to remember that selling is someone’s livelihood. The best situations are when the outcome is a win-win for everyone. I recommend asking for 15-20% less than the asking price. This is still appropriate, but respectful.
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